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- NATION, Page 33American NotesRESTAURANTSRequiem for Horn & Hardart
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- The final jingle of change through the slot above the lion-
- head spout served a cup of coffee for eternity. Last week Horn &
- Hardart closed the nation's last surviving Automat, on New York
- City's 42nd Street, two blocks east of Grand Central station.
- First opened in 1912, the cafeterias served 400,000 customers a
- day at their peak in the early 1950s. Famous actresses,
- well-heeled businessmen and just plain folks plunked their coins
- into glass-and-chrome dispensers to feast on such fare as Boston
- baked beans, macaroni and cheese and coconut-custard pie.
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- In recent years, Automats fell victim to consumers'
- changing tastes. A generation weaned on fast-food outlets didn't
- see the point of all the fancy fixtures and the diverse menu.
- Nor did the upscale power lunchers have any use for the
- Automats' simple fare. "Those who've become successful stopped
- coming," says Michael Sherman, an executive vice president at
- Horn & Hardart, which is now concentrating on direct-mail
- catalogs. "They've been calling to ask why it's closing. I ask
- them, `When was the last time you were there?' "
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